sursă: Fragrantica
Christophe Laudamiel este master perfumer, compozitor de mirosuri și parfumuri, conferențiar, scriitor și chimist. A creat, fie singur, fie în colaborare cu alți parfumieri, mai mult de zece parfumuri pentru case importante de parfumuri – Polo Blue for men (Ralph Lauren), Happy Heart (Clinique), Fierce (Abercrombie & Fitch), deadofnight și meltmyheart (strangelovenyc) și altele, pentru Beyoncé, Helena Christensen, Tom Ford, Burberry, Michael Kors sau Tommy Hilfiger. În 2010, a înființat DreamAir, un start-up inovator în domeniul parfumeriei, în colaborare cu Firmenich, care îi furnizează ingredientele. Scopul principal al companiei este realizarea de „sculpturi olfactive” pentru hoteluri, magazine și muzee din întreaga lume: The Pierre, Hotel Americano, Armani, Azul-Japan, Bliss, Grand Hyatt, Hard Rock Hotels and Casinos, Mercedes-Han Sung, New Balance, Oliviers&Co sau Visionnaire. Christophe este singurul parfumier ale cărui compoziții au intrat oficial în colecțiile unor instituții precum Musée International de la Parfumerie din Grasse, Harvard University și Cleveland Museum of Art. Tot el a creat și mixat cele peste treizeci de parfumuri-personaje care au făcut parte din opera olfactivă Green Aria. A ScentOpera de la Guggenheim Museums (New York și Bilbao), iar împreună cu Christoph Hornetz a creat cele cincisprezece mirosuri pentru cartea și filmul Parfumul. Istoria unei crime după romanul omonim al scriitorului Patrick Süskind.
Cităm mai jos Manifestul scris de Christophe Laudamiel și publicat pe site-ul dreamair.mobi.
FIRST,
THE PUBLIC SHALL HAVE ACCESS TO
REAL INFORMATION
...children shall be given olfactory education at home and in schools to awaken the senses, communication and intelligence,
...universities shall open real Perfume Studies departments. University courses shall use smells, fragrance compositions or olfactory science to illustrate their points,
...top students at top universities shall routinely join the fragrance industry as much as joining the aerospace industry or Wall Street, be it to become perfume diffusion engineers, perfume managers, perfumers or anything perfume,
...some perfumers shall become academic authorities and be elected Members of the Academies of Arts and Sciences,
...consumers shall be allowed to know that man-made molecules are fabulous things, they help protect the planet, foster art and technology and they have been used in the best fragrances continuously since the 1850’s,
...the public shall be made aware that most of us smell well enough, and smell better once we train and start putting our noses everywhere,
...blind people around the world shall be offered extra olfactory stimuli and enrichment,
...the public shall be taught that the brain gets as much information, pleasure, intelligence and decision power via our noses as via our eyes. By smelling, one doesn’t damage one’s nose, lungs or brain, as they are made just for that: to smell. Perfumers are not known to have rotten lungs or worn-out noses. Human beings get fresh olfactory cells every 4-6 weeks like sharks get regularly fresh sets of teeth. Smelling doesn’t provoke much more allergies than music provokes epilepsy crises. Let’s stop the drama coming from ignorance,
...teachers and psychologists, as well as doctors and nurses, shall walk around with a scent kit. Via smelling sessions, they shall obtain stories patients won’t recall by oral or visual questioning. In return patients shall enjoy the healthy brain aerobic called smelling,
...during any fragrance speech there shall be passed around at least one thing to smell. During fragrance awards, the winning scents shall be blasted into the auditorium, rebaptised scentorium, for the audience to enjoy what the presentor is bragging about,
...perfume writers and critics shall go to perfumery school, Columbia shall have an olfactory journalism class and yearly prize,
...the Osmotheque® conservatory, the only international fragrance archives headquartered in Versailles, France, shall be treasured and honored like the Library of Congress,
...people shall learn to archive their fragrances in a fridge or a wine cooler, and perfume bottle collectors shall respect the juice as much as the bottle itself,
...people shall understand that a per- fume piano, also called perfumery organ, has about 1,500 keys, also called ingredients or notes, compared to only 88 keys for a musical piano,
...people shall discover that composing a fragrance is more than mixing a little bit of vanilla with a bit of amber, and that, by the way, amber per se is not even one ingredient in perfumery,
...alcohol for perfumery shall be considered a wonderful thing, because it is just that: a wonderful nothing. We use the same alcohol as you have in vodka, beer or whiskey. Are you allergic to these? Alcohol solubilizes most essences and sprays well. Water does not. And alcohol evaporates so fast, it doesn’t disturb the smelling,
...my pdf file extension is actually called Fedex®. Fedex® truck, I love you, you make my day every day: your drivers and planes are my daily postal ponies or text messengers. File size is not limited to 30 MB but by the international aviation regulations on dangerous goods shipping. Indeed, orange and lemon oils, because they are flammable, and cinnamon oil, because fish don’t like cinnamon so much, are classified dangerous goods. After hitting the send button, the pdf arrives 1 to 4 days later with $40-$250 less in your bank account, and after you pass a biannual $900 training. All that just be- cause of the natural laws and jaws of nature, gravity, volatility and flammability,
...we shall stop complaining there are too many fragrances on the market. We shall instead get an education and learn how to sort through the crap. No one complains there are too many songs in Apple® Music or too many pictures on Instagram®.
SECOND,
LET’S JUMP TO THE NEXT LEVEL
...fashion designers shall spend more than $1 for ingredients and creative task and labor together inside a $60 designer cologne,
...Shark Tank® gurus as well as speakers at scent marketing conferences shall stop thinking scent is all about merchandising to enjoy higher margins vs. fashion, in order to support fashion. Is that the respect the sense of smell and the public deserve?
...perfumes shall be considered more than accessories. Perfumers shall become again the authority in fragrance design and decisions. Music is not considered an accessory, painting is not considered an accessory.
...fragrances shall deserve better treatment: movies are not critiqued by people who cannot see, awards are not given complaisantly by actors and studios to themselves, wines are not judged by how much gold there is or how big the names are on the bottles, champagnes are not launched after a 5-day aging process instead of 5 years to make higher margins,
...fine fragrances shall not be precooked to make sure they resist the heat of sitting on a tarmac in Dubai or under the spotlights in a store. Would you buy heat-resistant champagnes?
...start-ups and spin-offs in the fragrance industry shall be encouraged and nurtured just like start-ups in computer science and biology. Thank you Accords-et-Parfums, IFF and Takasago for your visions and pioneering new ways,
...the fragrance industry shall recruit, dress, talk and perfume itself in much more colorful and hip ways,
...printer manufacturers shall make printers to print custom-marked smelling strips at Sephora® or Douglas® stores: to get fresh uncontaminated strips of each time with the correct names of the perfumes printed on them, and to remember later what scent was sprayed on what smelling strip,
...the biggest outing organized at the World Perfumery Congress and the biggest competition at the American Society of Perfumers shall not be golf tournaments but a real smell challenge where people queue in line to smell the finals,
...the fragrance industry shall organize more truly fragrance-focused awards. Justin B. & Justin T.: I love you, but your fragrances have a long way before winning some real academy awards of perfumery. One of yours was sacred Scent of the Year 2014, awarded by judges full of conflicts of interest, for business results perhaps, but not for scent, sorry. Again, love u both,
...we shall publicly recognize scent heroes: scientists, botanists and authors who contribute to the development of perfumes, general olfactory knowledge and expansion,
...there shall be copyright and trademark laws to protect fragrance creations, olfactory designs and scent logos,
...perfume remixes by perfume remixers shall be as exciting as music remixed by DJ’s, and perfume remixers shall be happy to pay royalties to the original composers,
…every fragrance house and brand shall publish a code of ethics specifically dedicated to perfumery,
THIRD,
LET THE EXCITEMENT BECOME
WELCOME, BIENVENU,
WILLKOMMEN, ENCHANTÉ,
...it shall be further exposed that perfumers are not just inspired by flowers and the smells of their grandmothers. Smelling can be quirky, punky, sexy, intellectual and more,
...people shall go to theaters, movie theaters, museums, libraries, events and stores because of scented events. All the Instagram® posts of this world will not replace the combination of scent experiences with visuals and sounds,
...fans shall fight to be front row to get a whiff of the actors, models or arriving guests,
...scent shows, as opposed to fashion shows, shall see twins, the Rockettes®, naked models or models dressed as ghosts, each wearing a different scent for the audience to experience, as they swish through the aisles of the sniffers- viewers audience,
...publishers shall routinely beef up their paper stories with scented pages and smell inserts. Scent tracks and cartridges shall be provided prior to TV or movie programs,
...a “bad” smell shall not be said to be bad: like a horror movie, it can be a damn good bad smell. And like shooting a horror movie, it has to be designed damn well to be damn bad,
...children shall bring home a scented present, or hide a scented object in their parents’ suitcase as a travel amulet. Parents shall hold scent bars and surprises, bring back an unknown scent from an unknown place. These will be unforgettable experiences which mark for life. They enrich culture and diversity, and stretch the imagination,
...teenagers shall be wearing scents upsetting to their parents,
...“Girls” shall know their vanillas and patchoulis as much as their lipsticks. “Guys” shall know their oudhs and vetiver distillates as much as their wines and whiskies. And exchange “girls” and “guys”,
...grandparents shall have their final scents designed to be remembered the way they want to be remembered be- fore they go,
...the public shall appreciate the sustainable spirit of fragrance. By using fragrances, we effectively help 40,000 farmers in Haiti grow vetiver plants. By loving jasmine and violet leaves coming from Egypt as well as orange flowers from Tunisia and Somalia, we help bring children to school and give women jobs. By enjoying Vanilla extracts, we allow villages in Uganda to afford basic water equipment, whilst using Bergamot from Calabria helps to provide jobs to young generations in one of the poorest Italian regions,
...scents and scenting shall become again core religious and spiritual practices. People shall attend celebrations in churches, mosques, synagogues and temples, as well as practicing yoga, around smelling experiences. It nurtures memory, the sense of togetherness, the sense of whole, and promote extra internal and external communication,
...buildings shall get several rotating scents over the course of a day, like giving them a soul,
...perfumers shall travel in private coaches or private jets equipped with a full perfumery laboratory to smell and create on the spot. Hotels have grand pianos on location, why not scent pianos?
...forensic scientists shall analyze stable and discreet scent molecules to investigate crime scenes in order to get clues. Indeed, some scent ingredients can stay for days, others for months or years in a house or on a body or can resist a wash (rain/rivers/flood/blood), or even insects or worms. What a wonderful movie plot could be created here!
...a TV show shall be staged to reveal the backstage of perfume: sourcing of precious ingredients in remote inaccessible places – fragrance ingredients don’t grow in downtown Manhattan or inside good old Paris – the drama of perfume composition and their actors, the drama of perfume criticism and the go-get-lost of perfume selection,
...someone shall take on creating a Pantone® scent chart ingredient library, and a true vocabulary of scent. The nose is 100 times to one million times more com- plex and varied than your eyes. Let’s get started with specific language of all kinds,
...chefs and perfumers shall work together in the same labs, chefs using molecules and patchouli and tuberose and green mandarin essence and much more complex mixtures than just a spice mix, and perfumers using the art of heating, cooking and aging on rose oils, sandal- wood, oudh and other immortelle absolutes,
These dreams are actually easy to materialize in the age of today. Let’s open our nostrils and go for it!
Master Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel
GENTLE REMINDER
smell smell smell
smell smell smell
smell smell smell
smell smell smell
Sursă: www.dreamair.mobi
